Price of meat in Uruguay

USD prices per pound:

Cativelli Sausage: 4.58

Panceta—bacon: 5.20

Chicken legs:1.51

Picada—lean ground beef: 2.28

Chicken Milanesa: 3.58

Nalga—top/bottom roast: 3.90

After ordering at our favorite carniceria (butcher shop), I realized I had no money. No problem, the owner said, taking my name and writing the amount on a strip of paper. The next day, I saw he had a stack of these slips over an inch high. Mine was someone near the middle, so obviously this is a common thing. Interesting.

How do these prices compare with current prices elsewhere?

Se terminó.

Sunset during an asado in Uruguay
Photo: Wayne Ready

Yes, it’s been a while since my last post. Shortly after it, I commiserated with an older neighbor whose bicycle had bogged down in the mud I’ve never seen before. We got onto the strange rain and weather, and he told me summer was over (se terminó el verano).

I didn’t believe him. But I think it’s true: by the equivalent of mid-August in the northern hemisphere, and summer was gone. One of our neighbors in the campo told me he‘d seen swallows flocking to migrate north to Brazil or Ecuador. And I have gotten nothing—absolutely nothing—from the garden. Lettuce in the supermarket costs 3-4 times (factoring quantity) as much as we’d expect.

But we had a lovely day for our neighbor’s hangi-style pig roast, complete with tranquilo sunset that reminded me why I enjoy being in the country (all of 10 km away!).

Inscrutable Oriental* Bureaucracy

Being the one who knows how to conjugate verbs and speak complete sentences in Spanish, I went with my son to DNIM’s closest office in Géant, a shopping center not far from the airport, to get the third renewal of his provisional cédula (ID card), permission in hand from the glacially slow office of Migración.

No no no they couldn’t do that, says DNIM, because they needed an apostilled copy of his birth certificate with official translation, and I had to take a letter to the central DNIM office requesting a renewal. A friend wrote the letter, and I took it to the central office, where we went though the whole thing again about the apostilled copy of his birth certificate with official translation, because they only have the scanned translation we paid for the first time, and something about the Registro Civil and some other office of foreign affairs, but she asked for my phone number, wrote it on the letter, and said she’d call.

Which she did Friday evening, saying I needed to go by the central office para notificarse, to be notified of something.

So today I rode the bus into Montevideo, went to their office, and at the third desk was told the request had been authorized, and here’s the number to call at Géant to sort out a time to go there. I did a couple of other piddly things in Montevideo, but basically spent the whole afternoon garnering as much information as could be conveyed in a phone call in thirty seconds. Or an email.

Time is cheap here—as my son learned last summer, when he worked as a cook for a brief period.

*The official name of the country is La República Oriental del Uruguay, which means The Country to the east of the Uruguay (River), which further means that the country does not have a name, but rather a description. Suitably inscrutable.

Curious advertising choice

Olivo, short-lived restaurant in Parque del Plata, Uruguay

Couple years ago, a Brazilian chef opened a slightly upscale restaurant in nearby and otherwise not-upscale Parque del Plata. I took the wife to have lunch there once, and next to the sign showing they were open was a very convincing chain holding the gate locked shut. I doubt it’s still open.

I mention it today because I’m trying to clear my desk of little pieces of paper, mostly presupuestos, or estimates which you get every time you ask a price here, and came across this advertising piece for the restaurant.

Why would someone go to the bother and expense of creating these things, using a defective Google map that shows significant residential areas underwater? Boggles the mind. This mind, anyway.

The sausage machine

Inspired by local expats who have started making sausage, but not by their product or prices, the kid decided to make his own, and diligently cranked and cranked and cranked with a neighbor’s manual grinder. Lot of work.

making sausage, Uruguay

So when we found an electric one at Tienda Inglesa, we said why not and shelled out some bonus points. The kid cranked it up, and it worked like a charm!

poor quality appliance, Uruguay

For an hour. Unfortunately, not completely unexpected with products sold here.

What a difference a year makes!

A little over a year ago, we started construction on our remarkable new house. Have a look.
This is what it looks like now:

67c74-house-bedroom-finished
Looking toward the front. This will be a sleeping area.
house-front

Looking from the sleeping toward the back back.

The storeroom on the right replaces the charming defecation facility I photographed in August 2012. All that’s lacking is the kitchen. I plan to build the cabinets, and been waffling and indecisive about how I want to do them. But, as Stuarte Wilde said: There is no hurry on the creative plane, nor is there any lack of opportunity.

Garam Masala!

A frequent discussion theme among expats is the number of things not available in Uruguay. Long-handled shovels. Even something as simple as a bevel gauge and rafter square, which a friend carried down from the States not long ago. But checking out a local friend’s recommendations, I found both in two different stores in Montevideo.

And so it was with Garam Masala: we thought it had to be brought in, since Uruguayans for the most part consider anything more than salt and pepper to be excessively strong flavoring. Imagine my surprise when I spotted it on a spice rack at our rural carnicería (butcher’s)!

curry powder

(From Hindi: गरम मसाला, garam (“hot”) and masala (spices).

curry powder illegible packaging

And, in true Latin American form (I noted this in Mexico as well), the graphic design renders the type almost illegible. But hey, garam masala is garam masala, whether you can read the packaging or not!