Una locura

Our timing was bad, but our location could have been worse. Walking dogs at 5:00 PM, Syd and I got rained on to the point that I decided going into an air-conditioned supermarket in wet cotton might not be the best idea. And it was necessary: we were out of wine! It’s not killer air conditioning as in the Untied Snakes, but I remember well from my days as a summer camp counselor in Maine: Cotton Kills. Hypothermia is not your friend.

Home, just a couple kilometers away, we had received a lot of rain – pooling in streets, filling drainage ditches. I showered, changed clothes, waited for the rain to abate, and took off again for the 4-5 minute drive to Tienda Inglesa.

Not. The entire town was gridlocked/stop-and-start. I thought I could come at T.I. from the back, but that involved the Rambla (beach front road), which was no better. This is what I saw of the stoppage:

The red represents gridlocked or stop-and-start traffic. The 4-5 minute trip from A to B took at least 30 minutes.

The trip back was significantly quicker, traveling the right direction on the Ruta Interbalnearia:

Those cars headed west toward Montevideo appear that they may be moving slowly. They’re not. They’re stopped.

So I’m a little puzzled: this shouldn’t be “turnover” day – once upon a time, families here spent a month on vacation, but now it’s two weeks, and that turnover’s not for another couple days.

Sure, it’s Sunday, and the weather suddenly went pear shaped.

Wild….

The business card

When we first moved here, we found an older tapicero – upholsterer – to redo a bunch of used furniture we had purchased. We haven’t needed work done since, but I don’t that guy is still working, and I do think about it from time to time.

So when I saw a guy in the feria for the second time advertising his services, I thought it might be a good idea to ask for a business card. Which I did. This is what I got:

No card, no name. Just “TAPICERO.”

Which reminded one of the calendar I got from one of the other vendors a few weeks ago:

It hangs above my computer monitor, with retrograde Mercury and shoulder dates highlighted just in case I get a sudden and unexplained urge to buy electronics when I shouldn’t.

But noteworthy is “J&E” – they have a business name? Who knew? And if I told you the name, would you be able to find them in the feria? Maybe by the blue color of the truck in the photo?

No, instead they’re the cheese truck on the school end opposite the produce stand on the school end, as opposed to the middle-aged couple cheese truck a half block further, across from the produce stand where they usually wear maroon jackets.

That’s the extent of “branding” in the Uruguay feria.

There was a seed and nut stand memorably named 8 Búhos (8 owls) which appeared in Atlántida a couple of times. Since they were new, I asked if they planned to be there regularly. Always, they replied.

You guessed it: they’ve never been back.

Got ya covered

Local (Uruguay) campers. Looks like they’ve got it all sorted – solar panels, side awning, sun protection for the truck. There was a couple sitting with a little portable table between the two vehicles.

But: covering the tires to protect them from the sun? I guess maybe a good idea, but I’ve never, ever seen that before!

Parking Montevideo, then and now

Montevideo Rambla, Ciudad Vieja. When we arrived here, late 2009, it was rare to see even a single vehicle parked along this stretch of road.

Consumer credit comes to Uruguay! At least that’s one explanation.

Car prices have fallen recently. This may involve poor budgeting by people new to credit, buying cars for only *so much* a month. Perhaps they don’t think about fuel (2.5 times the cost in the USA), maintenance, and insurance. Then enough of them figure out they really can’t afford a car, and try to sell it.

At any rate, it’s distinctly more difficult to find a parking place in Montevideo than a few years ago, to the point that I usually don’t even try, and head to a parking garage instead.

City walking tour

We got on well with Charles and Linda, the photographers from my last post, so I suggested we do the free walking tour of Montevideo, which I’d never done. The weather was forecast yesterday to be lovely, and it was.

The tour begins in Plaza Independencia, site of the fabulously overwrought Palacio Salvo, apparently once the tallest building in South America. Our tour guide, however, told us there’s Palacio Barolo in Buenos Aires, built a few years earlier to the slightly lesser height by the same architect.

I won’t bore you with a blow-by-blow, but here were a few noteworthy sightings.

Under “STOP,” someone has stenciled “de comer animales.” Stop eating animals. Optimistic soul: Uruguay has the highest per-capita annual beef consumption in the world.

In the Plaza Matriz or Plaza Constitución (take your pick, as you are welcome to do with Uruguay’s year of independence – maybe 1830 or maybe 1824 or…), street vendors have interesting historical items for sale.

But for North Carolinians Charles and Linda, it was the NC Highway Patrol patch that caught their eye. Is there really a market for this stuff in Montevideo? Apparently.

And then this: Happy arrival in Montevideo, showing a couple falling down marble stairs.

Is there a story behind this, or an inside joke?

Oh yes, and the interesting fence design in Plaza Zabala….

The shoot

At the Christmas day party of our neighbors, we met a house-sitting couple from North Carolina who happen to be professional videographers with decades of experience, who love stories. And we – particularly my wife, who got caught in the middle of the Turkish invasion of Cyprus and who survived a perilous crossing of the Indian Ocean in monsoon season, detailed in her memoirs – have a few.

Charles and Linda came to visit and we set a date and time for a shoot for their One of a Million series. They arrived with what I thought was a lot of equipment, but they insist is just a fraction of it.

camera gear

They rearranged furniture, set up lights and background (I helped with background lighting, great fun!). Charles did most of the technical work, while Linda prepped Susan for their interaction, with her as off-screen and unheard interviewer.

in-home video session
Charles sets the camera’s white balance to 4100° Kelvin

What’s remarkable is that the end result feels as if it was one take, whereas the final 5-minute video is carefully edited from perhaps an hour of shooting (I lost track of time). They want it to feel like you’re chatting with someone over a cup of coffee.

in-home video session
Decades of experience, and it shows.

Then there was the acoustic environment. The neighbors’ music, playing since 8:30 AM, stopped. It was raining lightly, so there were no weed eaters or lawn mowers. There was almost no traffic on the street. The dogs didn’t bark once the entire time. And the completely obnoxious gas delivery truck with its piercing Führ Elise noise was nowhere to be heard.

As soon as the shooting stopped, the renters next door returned home from wherever. Shortly after, I heard the gas truck in the distance. 24 hours later – today – we would have had a very loud weed eater and lawn mower going next door. With the shotgun condenser mic, maybe background noise would not have mattered. But the lack of it was amazing and wonderful.

Hypothesis #2 proves out, apparently

I wondered what would happen to the left-behinds, and it appears that anything goes, indeed. The big container re-appeared in position number one.

trash container

Inside it appear what looks like the base of a fan, and a toilet, along with podas. But no visible appliance or fencing from my previous post. So perhaps the people who delivered this container, being more than one and thus able to load those items into the container, did so, and took them away?

If so, a remarkable and encouraging display of initiative – kudos!

Dealing with the podas

Maybe six months ago I wrote to the Intendencia of Canelones (our departamento), who had been putting up lots of signs like this.

“This space is also yours. Take care of it.” Obvious implication being, don’t leave crap here.

Given a ditch in front of my house, and narrow street, where exactly was I supposed to put tree and bush trimmings (podas), I asked? I never received a reply.

However, a month or so ago a large container appeared nearby on the large circular lot, and filled rapidly.

It actually appears in two different places. This was the second.

And here is the first. Apparently they assumed – as did I, for that matter – that it would be obvious the containers were there solely for organic material. Apparently, though, the owner of the washing machine and the guy who dragged overgrown chain link fencing didn’t get the memo. Or maybe they would have been hauled away, had they actually made it into the container instead of being left next to it. Either would have required more than one person to accomplish.

Before the container appeared, I had made substantial and ugly pile of trimmings this side of that little path in the foreground. I made a point of cleaning it all up when the container appeared, even though it was not actually in this spot, but the other, 50 meters away. It was a bit of work, but it was the right thing to do.

Will the people who left this stuff be equally responsible?

I suspect I already know the answer to that question.