“In a fabulous light”

Recently received:

“My name is__________________ and I’m casting an international travel show about expats moving abroad. We’d love to film in Uruguay and wanted to know if you could help us find expats who have moved there within the last 1-2 years or have been there for 3-4 years, but recently moved into a new home. The show documents their move to a new country and will place the country in fabulous light. I wanted to know if you could help spread the word to expats living there or are close to moving. If you’d like more information, please give me a call at ____________ or skype me at ____________. You can also email me at_______@leopardusa.com. Looking forward to hearing from you.”

(Leopard USA turns out to be House Hunters International.)


My reply:

“Hi ______,

I personally have no interest in promoting “unreality” shows. I was asked to participate in an International Living presentation on Uruguay, and dropped out when tipped off by a previous interviewee (I should have figured) that they always hype a location as “paradise,” or as you say, “in a fabulous light.” By the time that the DVD was produced, I personally knew 80+% of the people featured, and most of those singing the praises of the place had either left or only lived here part time.

In addition to glossing over the realities of Uruguay, I would hate to contribute to another “happy faces in an exotic sunny local” piece that inspires people to move here (or anywhere) without heavy emphasis on “do your own due diligence” or the reminder that “adversity breeds character.” I regularly read postings from people who have never been to Uruguay but want to move here because of something they read online: yes, the beaches are beautiful, and the people are friendly (though you’ll almost never be invited into their homes). Which is not to bash Uruguay — I’m in my sixth year here, haven’t left, and I’m a naturalized citizen, and despite being expensive at present Uruguay has a lot to recommend it. However, it’s the fifth country I’ve lived in outside the USA, my wife’s ninth. If you were to tell me your show emphasizes curiosity, the importance of acceptance, and (the key to salvation!) a sense of humor, I’d be much more enthusiastic.

Regardless, I am copying this to several people here with connections to the local expat community, some with regular mailing lists, whom I encourage to contact you or pass this on if interested.

For the record, based on my experience, “expats moving abroad” does not constitute a subset of “international travel.” Visiting a place and moving/living there are two memes best not commingled!

Best regards,


What some of those others have to say:

  • Whew!  What ______ wrote is a mess, and what you answered is spot on … This is definitely not something I would ever want to be involved in, and I would hate to get anyone I know messed up in this.  What is actually needed, particularly for people in/from the USA, is information that makes clear to them what moving to another country entails.  Hint:  Other countries are not simply smaller versions of the USA that need to be prodded into being little USAs … there are lots of people who “want to move here” who have never been outside the USA, and they are totally unprepared.
  • Amen.
  • I would agree with “do your own due diligence”.  Things looked much different when I did that IL interview … Today is not the same. I hope they do not make the show.

Sorry, _________ from Househunters International!

 

 

 

 

Chinese food in Uruguay! (just kidding)

Chinese dining in Uruguay - well, not really

I think some friends recommended this “Chinese“ restaurant in Carrasco. Well, the friendly purveyor appeared Chinese, and spoke Rioplatense Spanish so fluently that obviously she knew that real Chinese food would hold no appeal for the Uruguayan palate. Unfortunately, that expounded to no taste other than soy sauce, and food that seemed to be leftovers, especially believable considering we were the only diners.

Consider this a “must miss” when in Montevideo. Oh, did I mention ridiculously expensive?

I used to taunt expats in Uruguay: what‘s your favorite Thai restaurant in Montevideo? It was a Schrödinger‘s-cat kind of thing, except that the cat was metaphorically dead. In reality nonexistent. Ditto Chinese.

The fine art of geolocation in Uruguay

OK, red herring. Actually, I think I must have said “hell no” at some point when a web site asked to see where I was located. So this was the result when I looked for the distance to the closest branch of Scotia Bank, whose debit cards are replacing the Tienda Inglesa points cards.

geoloc-01

Hint: we’re only about 40 km away.

geolocate-07

But presumably I know now the geographic center of Uruguay, which is here:

geolocate-02

So naturally, rather than do something productive, I switched to satellite view to find out where I “was.” Looks pretty remote:

geolocate-03

But wait a minute! What are those shapes?

L-shaped forests in Uruguay

Triangular forests in Uruguay

Why, L-shaped and triangular patches of forest, of course.

You can find all sorts of fun tree patterns on Google Earth in Uruguay, which apparently takes the growing of Eucalyptus trees more seriously than its neighbor to the northeast, Brazil.

Ecalyotus trees: Uruguay, yes; Brazil, no

But triangles … why triangles?

 

 

 

Uruguay factoids

Squinting at coffee packages in the supermarket the other day triggered this train of thought.


  • Unless you look very hard for otherwise, the coffee you buy in a supermarket will have sugar in it (“glaseado”)
  • cuts of beef are at right angles to what northerners expect
  • It is almost impossible to buy a long-handled shovel (“you can buy a regular shovel, remove the handle, and put a long handle on it” – yes, I was actually told this)
  • A vehicle with automatic transmission is considered a luxury and taxed higher (in one instance, a mechanic refused to drive a customer’s car onto the rack in the shop because he “didn’t know how to drive an automatic.”)
  • (For North American drivers) Right on red can get you an expensive ticket (I just added to Wikipedia that right on red is not allowed in UY 😉
  • If you take driving school in Uruguay, you will not be told:
    • you should stay in lanes / that lanes have any significance (seriously)
    • what distance to maintain between vehicles
    • after passing, that you should wait until you can see the car in your mirror before pulling back into the lane
  • If Uruguayans say they lived in the United States, you can almost never go wrong by asking “New Jersey or Rhode Island?”
  • If you miss Uruguay in the United States, go to Elizabeth, New Jersey
  • If Uruguayans say they’ve recently been to the United States, you can almost never go wrong by asking “How was the weather in Orlando?”

Feel free to add to the list. I expect I will.

Ah, America

Ah, America:
the visual jingoism of
omnipresent flapping flags.
Shiny cars, beseeching churches;
smooth roads and ads for shiny
vehicles, tank-like or claustrophobic:
sometimes both.

My people: fun to help, make laugh,
cheer along. That I can do so easily,
waitress or Walmart Greeter.
Casually conversational, easygoing,
but so must I bear
the oppressive banality
of overheard conversations.

And not indulge intellect, perception,
nor reveal observation, awareness.
My son says they’re stupid:
given two days, I cannot disagree.

Triscuits, flavor rosemary
and olive oil; cheese a combo:
monterrey jack and cheddar.
Chardonnays not Southern Cone:
cheap good California Barefoot;
Onduraga from Oz. Not special,
just not Southern Cone.

In the hotel, we offer to leave
carry-on unfriendly corkscrew
for future guests. Two wine glasses and
real — not-plastic — knife appear
to carry upstairs
for our evening snack.

triscuit-barefoot

(from November 2014)

Voting day

politicos

Today is voting day #1 — a runoff election will occur in a month if no one gets a clear majority today.

An Uruguayan friend explained to me yesterday that if, instead of putting the list from one party in your voting envelope, you put a blank piece of paper, your vote goes to whoever gets the most. You also have the option of annulling your vote (voting is required by law). One way is to put two lists (“votes”) in your envelope. I suggested she do this so that if her father, who votes Colorado, asked her who she voted for, she could say Colorado, and answer her mother that she voted like her, for the Frente Amplio.

I’ll be eligible to vote in 2019, and though I generally have little interest in politics, I do find it inspiring to live in a place where they actually offer choices, unlike voting for one or the other half of the Rich Lawyers Party in the United States.