Manic summer weather in Uruguay

Uruguay temperature swing in one day

On January 31, I drove out Route 11, which most directly connects Punta del Este, summer glitterati HQ of the southern hemisphere, with Colonia, embarkation point for the quickest ferry to Buenos Aires. It marked the second biweekly turnover of holidaymakers, and the road appeared to be a river of black license plates in both directions.

The ones inbound picked poorly: they have anything but beach weather since. But yesterday it got hot, almost Paraguay-hot with humidity. When I took the top photo it seemed to me the pine tree was sweating as well. And here we are today.

A Uruguayan told me the other day that summer here used to mean temperatures in the 80s Fahrenheit. Not this summer. Not last summer.

Part of me is a little more convinced there is no normal anymore. Cambio climatico, as they say here.

Strange summer weather

Storm front, Atlántida,Uruguay

The weekend looks to be clearing up after suffocating heat yielded to suffocating heat and rain, then today’s “still-too-cold-for-shorts-and-tshirt” weather. Whereas a few days ago I shut the window next to me to keep out the heat, this morning I have it shut to keep out the cool.

I made this slightly surreal composite image a couple days ago. Minutes later the front passed overhead, doing little more than looking scary.

A little less tero-torial now

With the camera I have, very difficult to see subject in bright light

Tero-tero nest, Uruguay

I have not spent much time in the campo lately, and was fully expecting to see the baby tero-teros.

Instead, I was not greeted by noise. The teros, near the tajamar (pond), remained quiet until I approached to check the water level.

Here’s the nest. Empty. No eggs, no shells, nothing. I don’t know what transpired, but apparently we won’t be seeing little teros this summer.

Tero-tero nest, Uruguay

Meanwhile, the water level has subsided in the tajamar with our recent suffocating heat. The grasses I planted to the left are high and dry, but hanging in there (and I learned that the second type of mystery floating plants, which I did not add, were put there by my neighbor Mañuel).

I try to keep my blogs short, so that if one is boring, at least, well, it’s short. But since we’re on the subjects of teros and water, I must relate a revelation: an Uruguayan guy about my age told me that when he was a kid, visiting his grandfather’s estancia (big country place), the teros hung around the water, in the thousands. When they took flight, they formed a cloud that blocked out the sun. With the advent of “modern” (i.e., unsustainable) agriculture, they adapted: so now you see them only in pairs, far from water, near streets, even on Avenida Italia in Montevideo. I never dreamed they could exist in a crowd.

Maybe not

I’m cleaning the casita and was glad to find in a bathroom drawer this large bag from Macro Mercado, because there’s a lot of crap in the casita that needs to go away and a big bag helps. Problem is, the bag, advertising its biodegradability, has already started to go away itself….

Tero-tero!

Tero-tero nest, Uruguay

A pair of territorial Southern Lapwings, or tero-teros as they’re called here after their raucous call, have created this “nest“ near our tajamar, and, given their aggressive nature, have staked their claim for a significantly larger area. I was able to get close to take this picture (they’re the size of very small chicken eggs) without them dive-bombing me.

When the young hatch, that will not be the case.